
Everything You’ll Need
Tool Checklist: Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile
Tool / Material | Ceramic Tile | Porcelain Tile | Purpose |
---|---|---|---|
Tape Measure | ✔ | ✔ | Measure room size and tile spaces |
Chalk Line | ✔ | ✔ | Mark center and layout lines |
Straight Edge | ✔ | ✔ | Guide straight cuts and lines |
Pry Bar | ✔ | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old floors |
Spacers | ✔ | ✔ | Keep grout joints even |
Notched Trowel | ✔ | ✔ | Spread mortar on subfloor evenly |
Mixing Paddle & Drill | ✔ | ✔ | Mix mortar and grout correctly |
Wet Saw or Tile Cutter | ✔ | ✔ | Cut tiles for edges and corners |
Utility Knife | ✔ | ✔ | Trim underlayment or score board |
Level | ✔ | ✔ | Ensure tiles are even and flat |
Grout Float | ✔ | ✔ | Press grout into joints properly |
Bucket & Sponge | ✔ | ✔ | Clean tiles and remove grout haze |
Knee Pads | ✔ | ✔ | Protect knees on hard surfaces |
Safety Glasses | ✔ | ✔ | Protect eyes during cutting |
Gloves | ✔ | ✔ | Protect hands from sharp edges |
Cement Backer Board (if needed) | ✔ | ✔ | Stabilize tiles and resist moisture |
Optional (But Helpful):
Tool / Material | Purpose |
---|---|
Rubber Mallet | Tap tiles gently into place |
Tile Nippers | Make small, precise cuts |
Grout Sealer | Seal grout lines for protection |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
First, take away any baseboards and old flooring to show the subfloor. This makes a clean, even surface for putting down tile.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards without breaking the walls. If you have laminate or vinyl, cut them into small pieces and clean up all glue. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or scraper to take off the tiles and mortar.
Clean the Subfloor Well
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of all dust, dirt, and trash. A clean surface helps the mortar stick better and keeps the floor smooth.
Check for Damage or Moisture
Look at the subfloor for cracks, holes, or bumpy spots. Use a level to find low or high areas.
- Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching mix.
- Uneven areas: Use a floor leveling mix to make it flat and stable.
If you’re working on concrete, check for moisture with a meter. High moisture can make tile or grout fail, so fix any moisture problems first.
Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)
Depending on your subfloor type:
- Wood subfloors: Put down cement backer board for a stable, water-safe base.
- Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation or waterproofing sheet might be good sometimes.
Attach backer board pieces following the maker’s instructions, using the right screws and leaving space between pieces.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines
Start by finding the center of the room. Measure the midpoint of each wall and draw chalk lines on the floor in both directions. The crossing point is where you’ll begin laying tiles. This helps make the tile pattern look even.
Choose Your Tile Layout Pattern
For beginners, simple patterns are best:
- Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles line up square to the walls, making neat rows.
- Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are set at a 45-degree angle to the walls for an exciting look — a bit harder but still doable.
Note: Complicated designs like herringbone or chevron need more skill and aren’t suggested for beginners.
Dry-Fit Tiles to Check Alignment
Arrange a few rows of tiles without mortar (called dry-fitting). This lets you:
- Check if tiles line up and have enough space.
- See how tiles fit near walls, cabinets, or doors.
- Adjust to avoid tiny tile pieces at edges (which might look odd and break easily).
Spacing and Grout Lines
Use spacers between tiles during dry fit to make even grout lines. Common spacer sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, depending on tile size and style.
Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)
Find the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:
- Multiply the square footage by 1.10 (for simple layouts) or 1.15 (for diagonal or tricky cuts) to cover cuts, mistakes, and future fixes.
- Order that much tile to ensure you have enough for the project.
Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
For most tile floors, especially big areas, thinset mortar is the best way to install. It makes tiles stick well to the floor.
Common Methods:
- Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This is a cement glue that’s great for floor tiles. It can handle weight, water, and temperature changes. It’s used by both DIYers and pros for being strong and reliable. - Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Good for small DIY spaces or wall tiles in dry spots. Easier to use but not strong enough for most floors or wet places.
Note: For floors, thinset is usually the best and safest pick.
Installation Method | Best For | Strength & Durability | DIY Friendliness | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
Thinset Mortar | Floor tiles, wet places (bathrooms, kitchens), big spaces | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent) | Moderate | Standard for tile floors. Handles water, weight, and movement. |
Tile Adhesive (Mastic) | Small dry areas, wall tiles | ⭐⭐ (Limited) | Easy | Not good for floor tiles or wet areas. Quicker to apply but not as strong. |

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor
Mix the Mortar
First, follow the instructions to mix the thinset mortar. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle to get it smooth without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes and then mix again before using.
Spread the Mortar
With a notched trowel, spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make ridges. These ridges help the tile stick well and ensure it’s level.
Work in Small Sections
Only cover an area you can tile in 10–15 minutes. This keeps the mortar from drying before placing the tiles.
Pro Tip:
For bigger tiles, put a thin layer of mortar on the back for better sticking, especially if tiles are over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles
Starting right will make the whole project better.
Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Use chalk lines from your plan and start at the room’s center or focus point. This helps tiles spread out evenly in the room.
Set the First Tile
Put the first tile in the mortar. Press it firmly and twist a little to make it stick well.
Use Tile Spacers
Put spacers between tiles to keep gaps even for grout. This gives a nice, clean look.
Check for Level
After placing some tiles, use a level to make sure it’s flat. Adjust if needed before the mortar hardens.
Pro Tip:
Work in small areas so the mortar doesn’t dry before you finish!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit
Accurate cutting is key for a polished, professional-looking finish.
Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to determine the size of the tile piece you need. Mark the cutting line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.
Choose the Right Tool
For straight cuts, a manual tile cutter works well.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut in a Safe Area
Always make cuts outdoors or in a well-ventilated space to avoid dust buildup. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection.
Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to reduce waste and ensure a perfect fit!
Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure
Once the first tiles are set, continue laying the remaining tiles row by row. Work outward from your starting point, placing each tile carefully with spacers to maintain uniform grout lines. Regularly check that tiles are level and adjust as needed to prevent uneven surfaces.
As you progress, avoid walking on newly set tiles to prevent shifting. Work in manageable sections to ensure the mortar doesn’t dry out before tiles are placed.
After all tiles are installed, allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer) before proceeding to grout. Proper curing is essential for a durable and long-lasting tile floor.
Step 8: Apply Grout
Once the mortar has fully cured, it’s time to grout the joints between the tiles:
Mix the Grout
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the grout to a smooth, peanut butter-like consistency.Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber grout float held at a 45° angle to spread the grout across the tile surface. Press firmly to ensure the grout fills all the joints completely.Remove Excess Grout
After filling the joints, hold the float at a steep angle and scrape away excess grout from the tile surfaces.Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then use a damp sponge to gently wipe the tile surfaces clean. Rinse the sponge frequently and avoid removing grout from the joints.Final Buffing
Once the grout begins to haze on the tile (after another 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff the surface and remove any remaining haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor
Remove Grout Haze
After the grout has dried (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy residue will appear on the tile surfaces. Use a damp sponge or specialized grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines.
Apply Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small applicator brush or a sealer bottle with a roller tip for precision. Allow the sealer to cure fully according to the product instructions.
Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall your baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different flooring types or rooms. This gives your new tile floor a polished, professional finish.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
While installing tile flooring yourself can save money, it’s not always the right choice for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a pro is best for you.
DIY Pros
- Lower upfront cost
- Flexibility to work at your own pace
- Great for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)
DIY Cons
- Requires time, precision, and specialized tools
- Mistakes can lead to costly repairs
- Challenging for complex layouts or large spaces
Professional Installation Pros
- Expert precision and long-lasting results
- Faster completion, especially for large areas
- Includes subfloor preparation, cutting, and cleanup
- Warranties often included
Professional Installation Cons
- Higher upfront cost
- Less control over timeline
Cost Comparison
Here’s what you can typically expect to pay:
Installation Type | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft |
---|---|---|
DIY Installation | $2 – $8 (materials + rental tools) | $500 – $2,000 |
Professional Installation | $8 – $25 | $2,000 – $6,250 |
👉 For a full breakdown, check out our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.
Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation
Want to get pro-level results from your DIY tile project? Keep these tips in mind:
- Save time by organizing tools and tiles before starting. Lay out tiles and tools within easy reach.
- Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts — especially for porcelain tiles.
- Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This prevents drying out before use.
- Check for level frequently with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
- Work in small sections. This ensures the mortar doesn’t dry before you place the tiles.
- Minimize breakage. Always cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring
Even experienced DIYers can make these common errors:
- Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can cause cracked tiles and uneven lines.
- Forgetting spacers. Inconsistent grout lines lead to an unprofessional look.
- Walking on tiles before the mortar cures. This can shift tiles and ruin alignment.
- Using too much or too little mortar. This can cause poor adhesion or tiles sitting unevenly.
- Not cleaning grout haze promptly. Leaving grout haze too long can make it very hard to remove.
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install tile flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a strong, beautiful surface that can last for decades. But if you’d rather leave the precision work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — to the pros, we’re here to help.
Our expert flooring installation team can handle every detail for you — from prepping the subfloor to carefully laying and sealing each tile — ensuring a flawless, long-lasting result. We’ll also help you select the right tile style and materials for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!